“Climb Every Mountain” Days

A wonderful dinner tonight at Casa Rural Intxauspe in Markina-Xemein, after 15 miles of solid Everest-worthy climbs coupled with Space Mountain style descents. I allowed myself 6 bad words today, and quietly used them before I was 15 minutes out of town…

Today was a bit like crossing the Pyrenees on the Camino Frances - beautiful rolling pastures, horses, sheep, donkeys, and 6 massive Cinereous Vultures who lingered overhead a little too long for my comfort. As to the path, I don’t think I’ve ever hiked down such a steep surface. It certainly made me appreciate my Hokas - also made me a little sad that the Speedgoat 5’s are on their way out. I’ll be stockpiling them for future Caminos, as I’ve used them almost exclusively during my walks, and have had problems the few times I didn’t.

Thoughts on the Norte today? I remember reading about the fairly high paved path percentage for this walk. I don’t totally agree with this assessment. Yes, there are “paved” sections, but many of those are trails that go through forests or alongside the coastline, and are usually broken up with soft forest paths and rock climbing experiences that keep you alert and thankful for your poles. Thus far, there has been very little walking along the shoulder of a road - certainly far less than the Inglés! Even today, when much of the day was spent in the countryside, the road walking was on country roads, with little to no traffic. I suppose when I read “paved,” I picture myself dodging cars. That hasn’t been my experience so far, but I’m only a few days in.

The albergue owners prepared a community meal for us tonight, and I spent a happy evening with pilgrims from Italy, Franch, Belgium, Netherlands and Germany. We lingered a bit longer and joined the second table, and discovered a young woman who graduated from University of Oregon. We’ve declared ourselves “a flock” and I’m sure we’ll chat more in the coming days as we work towards Santiago. But for now - SLEEP!😴